Monaka – Sweetness of beans　Sankouin (also spelled Sankoin or Sankōin)

Why is something sweet served first?

It seems some people wonder about this. It might feel a bit unusual to start a meal with dessert.

However, this is part of the culture of the *Bikuni Gosho* (convents established by imperial princesses).

Regardless of whether a meal is to follow, the experience begins with hospitality in the form of tea. This is the tradition handed down through the lineage of *bikuni-gosho* (convents established by imperial princesses) and *ama-monzeki* (temples headed by nuns of imperial or aristocratic lineage /Successor title for a *bikuni gosho* ), a tradition upheld by Sankouin.

Therefore, the sweet treat served at the start is not merely a snack, but part of the tea service.

Although the sweet is served on its own, it is intended to enhance the flavor of the tea; the proper protocol dictates that the experience begins with the tea itself.

In the past—back when meals were served in the main hall—we used to serve *daifuku* (mochi stuffed with sweet bean paste). However, we switched to *monaka* (crisp wafers filled with bean paste) because *daifuku* was too filling, leaving guests too full for the meal that followed.

The design on the *monaka* is the *sasa-rindō* (bamboo grass and gentian) motif, which serves as the crest of Sankouin.

We fill the *monaka* wafers with sweet bean paste (*anko*) just before serving, allowing you to enjoy a delightful, crisp texture. At Sankoin, we believe that food tastes best when freshly prepared; by assembling the dish right as it is served, we ensure the *monaka* is delicious from the very first bite.

We occasionally receive requests from guests who want to buy our *monaka* as a souvenir because they enjoyed it so much, but we do not offer them for take-home purchase. (By the time you got them home, the exquisite flavor of the freshly filled paste would likely be lost.)

As you eat, you will discover a component in the center of the *monaka* that offers a salty and slightly bitter taste. This is known as *Daitokuji-natto*.

In the Kanto region, Kimuraya’s *anpan* (red bean bun) is famous for using salted cherry blossoms to accentuate the sweetness; however, in western Japan, *Daitokuji-natto* remains a popular staple. Beyond its role in sweets, it is also enjoyed as an accompaniment to rice or as a savory snack to pair with alcohol.

*A note on Daitokuji Natto

Daitokuji Natto is distinct from the common, stringy natto.

It is a type of *shiokara-natto* (salted fermented soybeans) made by fermenting soybeans with *koji* mold, adding salt, and then drying and aging the mixture. It is also known as *tera-natto* (temple natto) or *kara-natto* (Chinese-style natto).

It is a highly salty preserved food—resembling miso or soy sauce in character—that served as a vital foodstuff for temples in the past.

The roots of *shiokara-natto* lie in Chinese fermented soybean products known as *shi* (豉) or *douchi* (豆豉). It has been known in Japan since ancient times; in fact, *shiokara-natto* appears in the *Shin Sarugaku-ki* (New Account of Sarugaku), a text dating back to the 11th century.

In other words, contrary to popular anecdote, it was not created by the Zen monk Ikkyu(一休).

"Daitokuji Natto" was not invented from scratch by Ikkyu!

There is a broad historical narrative in which fermented soybean foods introduced from China came to be produced in Japanese temples and eventually became known as "temple natto" (*tera-natto*).

At Daitoku-ji Temple, there is a tradition that the monk Ikkyū Sōjun introduced—or left behind—the method for making this type of natto. Consequently, it is also known by the alternative name "Ikkyū Natto（一休納豆）.”

In fact, dictionaries note that "Ikkyū Natto" refers to the temple natto produced at Daitoku-ji's Shinju-an sub-temple, citing a description in the *Yōshū Fushi* (1684) which states that it was "originated by the monk Ikkyū."

However, the underlying product—a salty, fermented natto known as *shiokara-natto*—had already existed in Japan prior to that time.

At Sankō-in Temple, one also frequently hears the name "Tenryū-ji Natto." Although the names differ, the product itself is the same.

Naturally, we do not produce this Daitoku-ji Natto ourselves; it is said that even Daitoku-ji Temple no longer produces it for commercial sale. At Sankō-in, we source ours from a supplier named "Ikkyū（一久）” (written with different characters than the monk's name), located in front of Daitoku-ji.